After we left Ghent we headed southwest towards Ypres but realized it was to far to go in a day and went to Kortrijk instead. After a fruitless search for a hotel or campground we headed out of Kortrijk and did our first wild camping experience. We slept in a small park on a canal. It was lovely.
The next day we arrived in Ypres and camped in a campground in the city. in spite of all the damage done there during WW I the city is beautiful with a medieval wall surrounding much of it and a beautiful square in the middle. We went to the Flanders fields museum and then toured some of the battle sites. The museum in Passchendaele was very powerful with recreations of actual Allied and German trenches. Also to bike through the fields and see the 10s of thousands of graves was sad and made us think about the idiocy of that war. We also went to Essex Farm where John McCrae wrote In Flanders Fields. We went in the actual bunkers where he would have worked as a doctor.